Wednesday, August 30, 2006

12) Hey, ;-(

*sighs* It pains me and relieves me simultaenously to be sitting here writing this last entry...and thus doing so in a somewhat half-hearted fashion....

Show must go on - Picking up from my prolonged bus ride to Cordoba, Argentina's second largest city, the gallavanting so continues:

16th: The city - situated on bank of river Suquia and at the foot of the Sierra Chica, it is simply labelled the "Scholar" due to its dense student population & renowned faculties/campus....Also very Catholic, there are like 20 churches in downtown area alone with very animated and spectacular Holy Week celebs...Its' array of green Plazas, pedestrian streets and strips of impressive colonial architecture gives it a highly cultural feel in addition to the religious and scholarly aspects.

Very different feeling when compared with Buenos Aires it goes unsaid. Ok....surfacing just in time for another of those lovely checkout deadlines, I demanded to be taken to any international hostel in the city centre....
From there I began my crammed expedition around the inner Cordoba area, just like I had done in Rosario a day ago ish....Instead of boring yous with long lists agaaaaain, the most impressive places I visited that day included the Calle Obispo Trejos... This semi pedestrain narrow street running for several blocks had the fineset and most dense cof colonial buildings on offer that I have ever seen in a city.. From the church of Compania de Jesus to colleges and highly esteemed national university to banks, jurisdicial/admin buildings and what not... all closeby and radiant...each deserved a photo individually for their detail, colours and dominance. Shame there was a rather HIGH level of beggars and tramps lingering around amongst the more wealthy, smart and kinda snobby cosmo dwellers roaming.

Then obviously the omnipresent churches.. though shut for cleaning (noteworthy process in itself), 3 particularly stood out from the outside alone - the cathedral, the Santa Catalina Convent and the aforementioned Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus.. The third I managed to get into during a mass which I found rather therapeutic for a while... after all, why not be present in one in the epicentre of the country's Catholicism.

In the aftee, after assuring my imminent departure the following day, I headed for some more recommended cultural delights.... in the great outdoors.... the weather was sunny with strong sun, so the perfect conditions to explore the phenomenal Parque Sarmiento on the downtown outskirts.... I thought I would venture away from the Lonely Planet's "beaten gringo track" and confide in local sources and advice re: what to fit in to my unjust time parametres like....my was I by no means disappointed in spending some 5hours walking and walking.... the Park, though bisected with avenues linking the centre and suburbs in the outer limits, was very tranquil with huge flat open spaces containing a theme park, a normal park, a lake with boats and swans in it, a stage for conerts in open air, picnic spots and so forth....... casually passing by were a handful of fit student joggers, cyclists (on own path circuit) and pedestrians all away from the bustle of the microcentro. So, took great delight in just weaving in an out of all the above and finding own way through the neverending stretches.....

eventually I landed up right where I wanted to be : City of the Arts.... a huge enclosed mini campus complex in itself, this area is dedicated to promoting and exposing the Fine Arts and more to the students, general public and the tourist alike.. The site consists of several spaced out high tech pastel-coloured buildings, each of which dedicated to an art eg foto, modern art, music, temporary gallery, auditorium for shows, ceramics & pottery.... then in the midst of all this are artists and musicians casually doing their own thing in the open air.... Normally there are constant shows or exhibits running in the average day all year round but I couldnt hang around too long there so satisfied self by nosing around.. all is free by the way..... For a somewhat non artistic person I could certainly appreciate the surroundings and commend the special nature of the place as a whole.....

Next up was a spring clean of the main university campus after getting temporarily disorientated in the end..... could see myself studying in that uni for sure. passed the modern lingo building on way - far nicer and grander than Exeter's for eg lol... behind the park in the south, the Uni is flat, green and spreadout with a diversity of faculties attrating all types of student. went on for ages but come dusk, thought best to turn back.... saw the campus facilities also. Last on the agenda was the La Canada area.....here one can find the restaurants, shops, bars etc in a long strip either side of the avenue.... at the upper end in the North (a good hour walk from campus), the river suqui begins to split the avenue in the middle... nothing pretty or well maintained but nonetheless still nice..... ermmm and finished up in the Plaza de la Independencia and saw the courts which were well illuminated and complemented by fountains....

Some 9 hours after initially commencing, I could finally chill...staff in the hostel were very sociable and NON business orientated...no, instead the camp owner would quiz me relating to random themes and often mentioned Arentines and sex etc... offered to take us out to a resto and then tango show that eve but ended up being full of course.. went out solo to a nice Italian in the Canada area and enjoyed pasta for reasonable price. Had to choose what I wanted to dedicate my 2nd and final day in Cordoba to so settled for an independent venture out to a town in the province.... was knackered and sore understandably so after sipping some of the local tea by pipe and nattering, I turned in buzzing.

17th: slow start to the day with a mini lie in..... eventually got away from the friednyl but chatter box owner and boared a mini bus to Alta Gracia, 35k south west of Cordoba...... idea was that could see a bit of the scenery beyond the metropolis and get to know another cultural and historical town in the province...... Alta Gracia, a medium sized town was the home to several figureheads: firstly I visited the Manuel De Falla house-museum. This gent was Spanish-born and resided in Cadiz then in the Arabic quarter of Granada (where I lived/studied for year 2003-4)....hadnt touched on him in uni studies but nevertheless recognised hs significance.. was a famous composer and writer known internationally and friends with Garcia Lorca (poet) etc. very talented indeed. His former house at Villa Los Espinillos has been converted into a museum in his honour. very good.

Second came a second hugely popular man - Ernesto "Che" Guevara, whose birthplace I passed by and name I mentioned in Rosario. After his birth the family moved here next before his stidues in Buenos Aires and travels abroad /political campaigns... the museum was even better here.... very authentic and comprehensive in chronological events..... outlined this revolutionary's background, childhood, uni days, travels through the Americas,

....doctor days, then affiliation with Fidel Castro of Cuba in the Revoltion for Independence. Indeed, he verbally cites Castro as his most dear companion as they closely worked side by side in the struggle! many different things on display....... all round brilliant and touching. Come lunchtime I was starven so settled for next door's pertinent Cuban speciality cuisine. Tastay.

Spent the rest of the daytime wondering the streets and central plaza. The place seemed to be home to the social elite with nice white mini villa type housing further out.. 3rd cool thing I saw was the Estancia Jesuitica..From 1643 - 1762 jesuit father built the Merced church and generations resided in the adjacent quarters before Viceroys and the like inherited it.... Far from the social centre it origially was, it's more of a summer retreat. Throughly enjoyed the outing but again a littel short-cut.. Wanted to check out Villa General Belgrano for it's swiss-german feel in terms of housig, unique chocoloate and beer fabrication.. oh well..

Was soon time to board another joyful bus Mendoza-bound........ So half an hour delayed, Andy boards his 10hr night bus ready to conk out........ come midnight, the bus comes to griding halt on road and though the driver and assistant never once verbally informed both decks of the bus what the situation was as if we were in differnt worlds, we realised we weren't going aaaaanywhere for a log while..... atfer some rioting and complaining, another bus from Cordoba arrives to transfer us over.... the an hour later, THAT bus packs up as well though NOT completely. just chugging etc...really unprofessional of a good company in Argentina to have done that but oh well. 2 defficient buses in a row.. embrassaring... again no passenger info relayed so several passengers call the line up on phone and complain and ask what hell going on........ they were not sure either haha.... but in end an hour later a mechanic seemed to fix the bus enough for aus to carry on....... sooooo for us dozen or so continuing right on to the final destination of Mendoza, central far western Arg, we had to settle fr a 5 or 6 hour delay grrrrrrrr........ the driver eventually offered for us to stop to have a complementary coffee and sarnie ebfore continuig on for the final 2 hours.... no food on board anyhow so were starving as well shattered and grumpy.. babies, old ladies the lot...

18th: arrived 7 hours later in Mendoza, 1 million populated city famous for 70% of nations' wine, nice women, and sun..... thus wasting half a day of my allocated 2 days! was not best pleased........again it was a case of deciding what should be priority to see...... ended up paying a taxi driver to whisk me round privately..........for couple of hours to the places not reachable on foot eg Parque San Martin. Some 500hectare big and set up on the Cerro Gloria, this huge park houses a rowing club and articifical lake, the purpose built footie stadium in which Argentina beat Holland in 1978 world cup final, a zoo, the empty stage set which hosts the famus annual Fiesta de la Vindemia festival (wine but also music), spectacular panoramic views of the city AND region from high up, and the epic monument venerating the hero San Martin and the Argentinian/Chielan and Peruvian-Bolivian Army whilst fighting tirelessly for independence. all shields and flags are etched in the stonework. nice...

That done by mid pm, I jumped out and discoverd the small ish city centre and its delights.... starting in the huge main square of Plaza de Independencia, I ventured out to the purpose built 4 squared at each cardinal compass point : Chile, Italia, San Martin & Espana... each different and pretty..... the public were out in force, reading, playing footie, walking dogs etc.... very nice weather too which didnt expect............. what remained was just the church and the Founding Square... opted against the museum but caught glimpse....

Night time had a nice mix grill bbq meal with virtually all the hostel's guests and staff...alll sat around big dining table as if the last supper haha... really good and cheap... called it a night at midnight despite temptation to go out with the locals and gringos... (mendoza has thriving nightlife all focused around 1 area)..... knew had to be up at 6 to go do a tour of the nearby Andes moutains.... had to eliminate wine tasting sesh and other nice pursuits in favour of that.

19th: headed for the mountains shortly after dawn in minibus with foreigners......this tour led us up through the road towards the Chilean border.....in between the snow-capped mountains and intermediate ghost-like small settlement towns......

Before heading off to the mountains and stop-offs, we arrived at the town of Uspallata, a cross roads village which served as a major location for Bradd Pitt's 7 Years in Tibet film.... got kitted out etc...Running along the road side beyond th town are the ski centres: one for beginners, 1 for the military and another major resort....... all accessible solely via the carriageway leading to Chile... cool.

Noteable stops made were at Puente del Inca - one of the country's most striking wonders: situated at 2270m above sea level, this is a natural stone bridge spanning the river Mendoza. Underneath it are stallic features and rock walls with iron, sulphor and copper minerals in different bright yellow and brown colours. ...warm sulphorous springs are found at the bottom.... 2 explanations re: its origin are geology - glacial movement and erosion and a legend realting to offerings made to Incas etc resulting in this feature... hmmm all funky.


A little further along we approached Parque Provincial Aconcagua...Practically hugging the Chilean border, it protects 71,000 hectares of wild high country surrounding the western hemisphere's highest summit, 6960m high Cerro Aconcagua....reaching the summit takes 13-15 days including time for acclimatization with permits mandatory... we only got a distant view of the mountain of course but still impressive. We lunched in a raised restaurant looking back on the highway we had travelled along with scenic views of both sides of the road....

On the route back, we made a couple of noteable stops, the best of which was the lake.... an artifically created multi-functional purpose reservoir which has well exceeded its funtional use time frameof 30years due to sediment deposit phenomena. When we got back to Mendoza city, I was zonked... again attempted to meet up with Nat Espana briefly before departure that night but plan foiled.... chilled back in hostel before embarking on my longest non-stop journey yet, a 35 hour trip virtualyl west>east Argentina to get to the Iguazu falls.....was kinda gutted I couldnt make it to Salta, northwest Arg as this is one of the main gringo stop-off points for its scenery and the train to the clouds ride...I had come close to this region in Chile's San Pedro de Atacama and I heard the train wasnt working so wasnt too disappointed....

anyhow, the bus ride: quality and comfort exceded my other 1st class ride from barioloche to Buenos Aires.... booked self a "bed service" and was waited on like a king.... NO breakdowns but one change of coach due to a window panel smash upstairs???? random.... no delays either really so all hunky dory. had all meals provided aboard and many cool subtitled films .....leather seats...great snacks.... puts Uk'a National Express to shame! it so didnt feel like a 35 hour journey with 2 nights.....also got to see loads of varying scenery along the 2,500,000 metre journey passing via major towns in northern argentina...went well fast and didnt feel too zombified on arrival in Puerto Iguazu.

20th: on bus whole day 21st: upon arrival in final Argentine destination, it was another case of race against the clock. No messing, checked into recommended lonely planet hostel internationl and set on my way... loved the feel of the small town.. clay earth, small non sign-posted streets in simple circulal network and greenery eevrywhere with locals going about their business casually...felt lazy but knew had to do the parque nacional de puerto iguazu justice. had been informed that the water level of the 200m or so high iguazu falls was near a record low due to the worst drought present in 20years..... had been told by fellow travellers but since was crossing the border and had to see this wonder, had no option really.... not as if the levels would rise over the next day or week or so even... this is winter or rainy season time anyhow and the weather is unbearable in their summer so counted my blessings for that.... When I got there, the heat was just right and there wasnt a cloud in sight... the park was easily naviageable with a train circuit connecting the main falls and walking paths... Only 1 main tour agency company ofering various activities so I mean I had an easy time there.

Thought i should do at least 1 activity other than walking round independently with the masses.... so i did a mini safari, flora/fauna tour with a speedboat ride along the Parana river.... obviuosly couldnt get close to the falls due to water levels (was informed was indeed possible a few days ago but even so)....... the safari was basic and aboard this huge truck.... tour guide hilarious and had us in fits of laughter at least.. boat ride was wicked due to power of boat and the angles he had us up in the air.. great opp for fotos along the shores of river with mini falls and beaches..also got longitudinal view of falls from distance.

Afterwards, followed these 2 Argentine people along the path to the main falls, Garganta del Diablo (Devil1s Throat)..... took the train to the path trail which took less than one hour both ways... at the end, we were literally several metres from the top of the falls and so had a close up view of the crushing water... took many 360o videos and fotos obviously. small rainbow kept on appearing and disappearing in the midst of the foam which was a cool bonus... could see the lack of water due to amount of rocks visible yet the volume of water as far as I was concerend was immense... actually appreciated the contrast of earth, rocks and water ratio rather than just water water water cascading like..... beautiful honestly... topped experience of niagara falls in Canada even though went with family on boat ride right close up...

After 6 hours spent in the park, made way abck to the town.. bumped into natasha, girl met from Uk in Pucon, Chilean lake district. she was ecstatic like and had just come up for a long weekend trip from B.Aires.. joined forces with her and went out to dinner in a local all you can eat grill buffet. .lovely jubly... the adrenaline had finally ceased and so I felt incredibly shattered so had to go to bed ....

22nd: with a 50% discount of park entrance, the pair of us had to return to finish the circuits and see the falls from many different angles and heights..... perfect day for it so brought picnic lunch.. got in around 9 and was not so busy so loved that... headed straight for the sendero superior of upper circuit...easy trail..... again 1 hr max long. went crazy with the snap taking mainly of pure scenery as humans spoil! the trail led us to many different secondary falls and thus diferent observatory points. neevr got bored once... kept on seeing these coati like animals..cross between racoon, squirel and ant eater.. they were NOT shy and came right up to us. tame.. got engrossed in them for whiel adn also butetrflies and lizards.. added bonus to see such quantitties of wildlife.....

After the upepr trail, we continued on to the lower or inferior trail.. longer adn more varied, this offered views from below - above instead of birds eyee or parallel.... steps led us up and down, and around.... saw the same falls eg adam, eve, bossetti adn 2 sisters from differetn angles and also, lagoons and pools..... at the end of the trail, we got the free boat crosing to the San Martin island from where we had a view of the river downstream and up plus the falss from a more panaoramic view.... at the summit fothe sile, we felt the spray of the falls and also this clearly defined rainbow bisecting teh flass halfway down. inc redible!!!! so tempting to swim or clif jump i tell ya.... chilled briefly on teh beach there and chomped at cold lunch....

The afternoon held a once over tour of the Foz do Iguacu on the Brazilian side for me... after a stressful and badly administrated border crossing on 2 local buses I got to the town of Foz........ noone could tell us how to carry out formalities on the border and i didnt even have my luggage scanned by customs.. no filling out of declaration forms.. nothing. noone seems to care..considering how many people normally cross this Argentine-Brazilian border to get between Rio de J the falls and Buenos Aires for example. ridiculous. had to pay exit tax and poor natasha accompanied me thinking it would be easier.. took a long while and by time we got to the town, she had to turn back as had night bus to buenso aires booked.. even me, with my anticipated 7pm departure to Rio, I was kinda pushing it...

dumped gear in international bus station and got a taxi to the national park of Foz do iguacu... costly but worth it....everyone said that you have to see both sides of the falls even if the Argentine side reigns supreme for its variety, number of activites and paths etc.... so I literally spent 2 hours or so marching along the only real path leading to the panoramic watchpoints and lift up at the start of the falls... though impressed, thought the arngentine side was much better overall.. enjoyed the lift ride higher up to get feel for the flow of the falls....

Come tea time I was back on a bus to town and then lucky enough to get seat on the last service to Rio, my final destination.... had fright at the cost and quality of the bus so knew was in for a hard journey... boarded at 7pm and took 24hours with many long stops at motorway service stations... really felt anxious at not understanding the portuguese lingo.. for first time, had to make real effort just to get by....

So bye bye Argentina, land of mate eta drinking, political debates re spanish conquest and british takeover of Falklands, tipping baggage loaders in bus stations as a formality.... and HELLO BRAZIL..... wel like 1percent of it lol....

23rd: really enojoyed the green hilly scenery on route to Sao Paulo and onward to Rio. felt like what i expected from brazil really. motorway well constructed and the scenery beautiful.... had contemplated stopping briefly in Florionapolis but couldnt bring self to do that aaaaagain.... arrived in the ex-capital at tea time and went to one of the more cheaper hostels.. costing 13 dollars which is OK for rio!!!! crazy!! unheard of before this on my travels... still was thankful to get a bed and dorm to self for the first night. slept like baby and planned my adventures in the cultural capital.....

24th: today was the day of the historical and political centre of Rio..idea being to get it "over with" before the beach, partying and chilling string of days commenced. metroed it up to the central zone and found myself emerging in the main square, Praca Floriano...admittedly all I did was follow the Lonely Planet´s rough walking tour guide to fit in the most important bits of what remains of the original Portuguese settlement 500 years ago. the weather was baking and rather humid, very differnt to Buenos Aires indeed. Stuff to have checked off my list were a couple of museums, the convento san antonio whose statue is an object of great devotion to many Rio female folk in search of husband.

From there I trotted along the Rua da Caricoa containing many old shops and cafs. Lunched in Bar Luis, a trendy locals place - just to get the feel for the working day lunchtime atmosphere. Next up was a once over of the Campo Santana, a pleasant leafy park where emperor dom pedro I declared Brazil´s independence form Portuguese crown in 1822. continuing on, I hit praca 15 de novembro which houses the paco imperial - old monarchial palace and now seat of goverment. Though closed, there was an exhibition narrating the history of Rio as old capital of portuguese empire before passing to capital state and all this... very interesting in fact. also saw the legislative palace through virtual tour and had peak inside the tribunal. just behind this is the port area where ferries frequently cross across to Niteroi on the other side of the Bahia de Guanabra.... boats were passing to and fro..pretty views... just behind the saefront was the raised dual carriageway with motors whizzing through the city lol. all together...

To finish up, I walked through the Arco de Tees, an arch formed by part of an old aqueduct and inside which runs the travessa de comercio.... number of chique outdoor restos and several colonial churches... retraced my path back through the downtown area and went back to hostel.... Now - Rio vs Buenos Aires: downtown in rio is more claustrophobic and dirty and manic with people.. not as scenic and spreadout either but has much more random greenery and isolated areas at high relief too. Come eve time I was shattered and satisfied with the extent of my historic walk so felt fine just sitting in the hostel and having early night

25th: my 23rd birthday - wow! so lucky and spoilt... decided to move to a bigger and better but cheaper party hostel that my irish friends had recommended. el misti in the botofogo district hugging the seaside promenade nearly.. was delighted to find out that the weather was stunnig for it.. 30 degrees with clear skies... also learnt that the hostel was having a routine all you can eat bbq buffet that eve which all guests participate in normally and that i would have a mini surprise later on.
also wanted to celebrate in style that night and found out that all ppl were going to the famous Lapa street party as well. so couldnt have asked for more.. met nice people in hostel wich bonded with too. particualrly Ian and Laura form Kent.... got free drinks, a happy bday song and a delicious chockie cake as well.

so wasnt drunk enough to let my hair fully down at that stage but promptly got our coats and after sayin a million thankyous we all headed out to the carnival atmosphere in lapa near city centre.. was wild... caipirinhas going for nothing.. so strong.. food stalls..drinks.... vendors.... bars and clubs with open terraces and a rave area all within a few blocks... people for miles in all directions..... tourist police chatting away to us......

headed to nightclub to end it at 2 am... nice mix of latino and hip pop... good crowd of strangers there both from hostel and natives of rio... didnt drink too much or spend too much as wanted to enjoy and remember..
new wanted to veg out on the copacabana and ipanema beaches to recuperate and lap up sun.

oops i missed out the higlight of my bday day...i went up the sugar loaf hill or pao de acucar.... 700 m high, accessible via 2 cable cars from Urca distric, this naturally preserved hilltop as reult of ancient erosion is on the coast but in the midst of rio's metropolis. is the best thing about rio... honestly, i neevr thought this "must see" landmark was so rich in history and definitely trully astonishing... went up in the cable car paying 8 quid for the privelege but never knew i would fall in love with the city the way i did..

its like i got up there an hour before sunset and took so many fotos.. the city from above has to be the worlds most beatiful..... panoramas stretching miles... beaches vivid, skyscrapers tidily arranged, the imposing ststude of christ the redeemer on corcovado in the distance as if flaoting in between clouds.. copacabana in the distance.. traffic like micromachines.... green hills everywhere and many small diff islands in the ocean.. plus the airport is ona peninsular so what a landing or take off it must be.... breathaking..

to add to the experience i bumped into 2 french ppl i went on tour with in the bolivian pampas... chances.. so i was able to share the moment sipping my first brazilian made caipirinha cocktail on my bday and chilling in front of sunset on top ofthe world! wow..... only thing that lacked was the armada of family and mates lol... boo hoo... anyhow, waited for dusk and then darkness then the illumination and cool breeze of the city was very impressive also! loved it...

26th: rose early and as planned took to Copacabana and Ipanema beach strips to soak up the sun and swim in the ocean during brazil's winter time haha. 30 degrees so not complaining! copacabana, the worlds most famous beach certainly didnt let me down. was long, white and beautiful. not too many bppl on the beach but many vendors passing by.... got many hours in and a couple of soaks... walked further along the coast to ipanema, the nicer but smaller beach strip with bohemian feeln earby. did pretty much same there. in the evening I joined laura and ian for dinner back at the copacabana area on teh seafront... ppl were strolling by in the dozens....
was a concert on the beach too as well as arts n crafts market in the area. so locals and tourists alike were flooding by. ate a mixed grill and salad platter for 3 and absorbed the hotel and casino like beachfront atmosphere.

27th: lazy day and then watched sao paulo vs a top rio team in the footie league... flamengo drew 1-1 with top dogs sao paulo in a somewhat mediocre and non dirty affair. stadium wasnt that huge and has work being done to it. got seats with the homeside so loved the atmosphere at least. made up for not seeing boca juniors in buenos aires suppose.
Afterwards, took a well deserved powernap before headingout with a dozen ofthehostel's guests to the Favela Funk party..... a favela is a shanty town or district basically which is potentially dangerous by day to non fevela dwellers... in the north of the city, these folk live in poverty comapred to the middle class in south.. all makes up rio's dioverse culture though... instead ofpayinga fortune to go there with hostel folk, we all jsut made own way there and had many drinksbefore grunging away in the sweaty meat market club with funky music with heavy base.... wasnt too bad and chatted away to locals in every direction. v differetn from the lapa street party but worth the visit. returned at 5am

28th: LAST FULL DAY IN BRAZIL, LAT AMERICA AND ON TRAVELS.... intended to go up to the christ the redeemre statue for fotos and view but sky was overcast.. saved me money .. instead took a long walk to copacabana to get fresh air as all museums closed on mondays and i had done everythign else on the checklist. nice to chill to be honest and not fok out unneccessrily........ bought self two pairs of funky brazilian sandals to keep me going lol.
in the night time i went out for one final meal in the neighbourhood I had grown fond of before returning to the hostel in its ususal rowdy state - pizza night. managed to avoid happy hour and hibernate and face the ominous task of packing and thinking over.... booooring....

29th: final morning in Rio and on travels - puring rain and wind lol.. ah wel, nice slap in face back to reality scenario hey.... not bothered really. temperatures were similar to UK weather so I just accepted and in end took refuge in cinema and watched a touching documenatry on lat america's poorest nation, bolivia... was about the poverty, political corruption and the campaigns of Goni in 2002-3 elections to try to save the country.... gruelling but educational! enjoyed thoroughly.. couldnt be arsed to go to museums for sake of it as that would be depressing to say that was last thing did in Rio lol!

taxied to airport well early in anticipation of heightened security checks but ni end had plain sailing and smooth flights to Madrid then onward to Gatwick where I am sitting right now, polishing this goobldigook off before boarding my final flight home to home, jersey, first world stressful routines, reality........ autumn... all that depressing stuff.. on the other hand, will relish reunions with family and home comforts at least.

So where now? That IS the £1,000,000 question people.... :S

August 30th 2006: So i hereby conclude my adventures of Latin America March-September 2006 - how I will sorely miss the countries, culture, climate and poeple met and made friends with on the way, both locals, natives and foreigner backpackers....

The dream was not only made a reality, but one hell of a journey and unforgettable experience.

ps keep posted for photos to be uploaded.

See or bump into many of you soon ",) x

Wednesday, August 16, 2006

11) Penultimate diary entry :S

4th Aug (cont'nd): ...First impressions of Bariloche (Argentinan PatagoniA) were all good.....This town home to 150,000 is surrounded by snow-dusted mountains and is beautifully situated on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi...It's a major tourist centre with chocolate, jam, cake, ice cream shops elbowing souvenir, sportwear, international cuisine restos along the busy main streets running parallel to the lake. Travellers arrive here to explore the National Park in which Bariloche itself is located...many popular activities include rafting, fishing, trekking and skiing in Winter.....

The town was bustling when I arrived in the aftee which was actually a pleasant surprise coming from the wilderness haha..Didn't do much other than nose around the main central blocks and chill in a minging hostel full of Argentinians to get first hand info and advice amongst other things...

5th: Leaving myself only one full day and a morning in this trendy, slightly expensive town, I thought I would follow the word of the Lonely Planet Book in terms of "must see and do's"... Managed to bus up to the Cerro La Catedral (skiing resort 20ks up the hills) but as a pedestrian only... The resort is one of the largest in the continent with 70k+ of all level runs.. Had satisfied myself with the little skiing I did in Chile so just went up on the chair lifts to the summit from where a panorama of the mountain range, the lake and lake islands with the town a faint cluster of dots in the background could all be seen clearly in full glory....Enjoyed just wondering around up there and amusing self watching others, taking photos and having warm drinks.

That activity saw me through half a day pretty much so what was left resulted in a stroll of the " Centro Civico" - a nice plaza enclosed by arches and wooden towers in which the town hall, post office, provincial government building were all found....all built of log and stone. One block forward was the lake...Strange how there is such a concentration of buildings, traffic & people surrounding the shores of the lake......Other than that, just toured the side streets and the lake with my camara....resisted any temptation to sit down in the dozens of adjacent chockie/pastry shops an have a deluxe coffee... couldn't be justified... ridiculous how many there are honestly... gourmet!
The Patagonia Museum was shut for the weekend unfortunately so couldn¡t see the only detailed and worthy museum in the area... Thought about leaving the other suggested trip for the following day before my next bus. The trip is a boat ride out across the lake to the Victoria Island...either that way or walk the length of the shores to a peninsula and back taking in the scenery. ......

Bariloche is also known for its party nature..... many nice little bars and pubs with discos asking hefty entrance fees....twice price for foreigner than national if you please... best to keep schtum and mutter Argentine slang whislt in queue.....Heard talk of a Mexican themed food/drink/entertainment party going on that night in the funky thriving hostel I had moved to - with nachos, fajitas, tacos, tequila + show & kareoke...so thought I would socialise in that respect. But when I got back, I instantly made friends with my solo Brazilian roomates and got on like house on fire...Hilgor and Gilmar were on vacation from Rio De J area...really sound. so we chatted in a mixutre of Spagnish and Portanglish and then they randomly asked me to join them in their group cooking..so I tried normal Brazilian supper for free and in good company. Ended up bunking the party off in favour of smuggling in non-permitted alcoholic beverages from shop lol..real univeristy fresher like I know.
Drank away til 3am and then headed for the boliche zone (clubs)...... knew it would be banging but left it kinda too late.. the whole street seemed to be full of drunken rowdy teenagers or student folk coming out of clubs steaming etc.. loads of coaches for bar crawls etc. not our scene really. plus the cover charges were steep at 12-14 quid... half price for loals or nationals grr..... despite bargaining for cheaper entry and checking out the interior, we decided against and headed back to bed. Interesting.. didnt seem to be any tourist around for a sat night.... oh well.. knew I could hold out for Buenos Aires baby anyway!

6th: Rain, rain and more rain.. more like UK autumn weather man! not motivated to go outdoors, just chilled in the sociable hostel confines and read books etc until had to leave on coach at lunchtime. could have seen a little bit more of Bariloche but hey. Got to Junin de los Andes, 3 hrs north of Bariloche around 5:30pm, passing nice pastures and lakes on the way... This town of 15,000 inhabitants is a in the province of Neuquen (lake district capital in Patagonia), 3 hours north of Bariloche. Quiet, compact, nippy, exposed around the highway but in complete isolation surrounded by farmland and greenery/brown, it was a nice stop-off point.. easy going.... is pretty much in line with Pucon, that chique lake district winterwonderland town in middle chile I went to.... late in the afternoon, wasn't much to do so I just found my way around and treated self to a nice local caserole dish and retired to my pit early.

7th: Being winter and all, excursions and outdoor activities are limited in nature and frequency, so I decided to sack the proposed options off and avoid tour agencies completely.. for example, the imposing Volcan Lanin is 60ks outside the town and the national park of Lanin nearby but weather not ideal... Instead, I busied myself within the central perimeters.

The highlight was this wonderful spiritual artistic-religious-cultural "Via Christi".. this zone, a 2km circuit within the sparse alpine forest land is a fairly recent project still under development. It's basically dedicated to depicting the birth-work-miracles-sacrifices-death-resurrection of Jesus Christ in the form of 18 successive chronological biblical events made visual in the form of actute stone carvings of people and items.... raised on platforms..

these meaningful scenes have multiple significance....in conjunction with the christian displays are murals and wooden plaques devoted to the indigenous Mapuche people, repressed by the Spanish conquistadores.. and also general info on the repression of the Argentine people and culture.. mention of the 2001 economic strife (peso/economy crash)..... 2 local figureheads with numerous mentions are Laura Vicuna and Ceferino Namuncura..the first was blessed and made a saint by Pope John Paul II for her works. The Mapuche and Argentine history/conquest/culture and treatment is broadly depicted in juxtaposition with the strippping of clothes and dignity, burden carrying (cross/sins), crucifixion stage etc if you get the picture ...kinda morbid but an undeniable reality. Was touching.. very quiet and deserted.. really muddy but worth the trip... based high up in the woods.... can see the small town in its entirety so a bonus there for foto moments.

Rest of day entailed lazy promenades around.. didn't bother going insdie the museum, but the Church was rather modern and new.. evangelical in nature and kinda neutral embracing all religions in the surrounding land...called a "sanctuary" in which Laura Vicuna's name radiates. The Plaza del General San Martin (Argentina's most prominent figure, and liberator) is nice enough with trees and plants inside a park.. around that you have all the necessary buildings a community needs eg post office, church, town hall, hopsital, school, shops, pharmacy, restaurants, tourist office... quite cute. Day after I planned to walk along the riverside before my 19 hour journey to Buenos Aires.

8th: so indeed to pass a bit of time before my bus, I enjoyed a morning march along the shores of river Chimehuin making the most of the fresh country air.... Best part of the day was spent aboard my 20hour bed-class coach to Buenos Aires. The ride in terms of service, facilities and comfort just doesn't compare to any other before.... seriously, it's ridiculous.....the time passed so fast considering. throughout the journey we had like 4 films, radio stations, coffee and juice dispensers, air con...... soft comfy nearly 180 degree reclinable armchair like seats with reclinable foot rest with pillow and blanket.... I started out pretty much alone on the multistop transnational service but come 4pm, the luxuries and passengers flowed in.. afternoon tea of cake, croissant, bikki..................then a boiled sweet at 6pm with a complementary packet of natural tea (maté) probs to keep your custom.....then at 7:30 out comes the JD on the rocks with generous measures..... then at 8:30 we have our meal.... no ###### packet stuff you get given on plane.. oh no....salad, bread, cold sliced meat then rice and meatballs in gorgeous sauce for main.... peaches for desert.. 2 glasses of wine to wash it down...........then a t 10pm whislt watching last movie... a glass of tasty CHAMPAGNE if you please.....soooo lets reiterate.... 25quid for a 20 hour ride and all that food and service..... baaaaaaaaaaargain. slept kinda well as well which shocked me...

9th: after passing through many towns in patagonia and central Argentina, I eventually get to the amazing city of BUENOS AIRES at 9am in the huuuuuuuuuuuge single bus station. From there I eagerly zipped down to my hostel where I would be reunited with my fave 2 Peru-Bolivia tucan tour trip buddies aka irish clover sisters Michelle and Lisa Toner.... was so cool.. unfortunately the staff at the hostel were ###### and rooms were full up so my reservation made day before was lost by default.... so hunted for another party hostel across road and after 2 attempts, got one.... only planned to stay there for just the 1 night as wasnted to be living it up with their company and party atmosphere in the original Millhouse hostel.....

Got freshened up and then we all went to the Recoleta district, famous for its Ritzy look and feel with top restaurants and the such.... its most famous thing is the cemetery where the rich people have their dear deceased buried in mini sancutary sarcophagi buildings.... with marble altars, stone sculptures and trees honouring the deceased..... crazy costs and huge spaces dedicated to 1 individual or family.. be it a nobleman, public service person, ex president or famous celeb or rich family......... quite vain in areas through the expressions on the self-idol human statues.... very pretty stretching for metres.. the most famous person buried there inside a chapel type thing is Evita Peron, the highly esteemed and loved ex-Argentine president... her plot is of course no much better or unique than any of the other dozens of monuments/sarcophagi. Some were in very bad condition with rot and moss around the doors.... in others you could see the coffins on top of each other inside... in others you could see down the spiral staircase to the earth where the cofffins lay... others were immaculate with modern digial photos inside and altars with flwoers and gold decor..... very impressive cemetery with a lot of character and work put into it.... very interesting indeed...

Outside we coudl see many paseaperros ie professional group dog walkers...

they parade around with canines of all sizes, breeds and colours.. quite interesting passing by 12 dogs on leeshes...

Come late afternoon us 3 made a trip to the local supermarket to buy our nourishment for the evening ... that we would cook in the hostel... nice group effort and it tasted very nice for pittance... nocci with veg in arrabbiata sauce with veggie croquettes ....washed down with with whole litre of table wine each... oops.... just sat in the hostel communal area and chatted and drank until we decided to head for Opera Bay nightclub.. this prestigious huge club similar to the sydney opera house in appearance... with posh office workers in sutis on wednesday night ie strict dress code..... normal hours of 7pm-2am..... however me and an irish bloke were in jeans and trainers respectively which is not tolerated on this night only.. so we ended up returning to the millhouse to the fun instead.. oh well.... stumbled back to my hostel to spend the night.

10th: checked in to the Millhouse finally..... staff there a bit arrogant and condescending... purely a money-making scheme.... quite hi-tech in sense of gaining access to rooms via a thumb print sensor.... all the cool facilities a party hostel should have.. no need to same more..

Then as Michelle was feeling ill (combination of self-inflicted things really), me and lisa went out solo to the Palmero district where we went to the botanical garden, and cool zoo with all sorts of animals inside really nice and quaint encloures built around existing buildings.... in the middle was a pond and japanese garden.. skies cleared up and the sun was just enough to feel warm.. Afterwards we headed back and good old English Steve had checked into the hostel as well..... so again we cross paths for a brief period of time... also natalie espana from jersey is travelling around Argentina, Uruguay and northern Chile and since she was in Buenos Aires by pure coincidence, we tried to meet up but communication prevented our meeting... hoped to catch her in northwest Argentina in the next week.

That night me, the irish and steve went out to dine at an all you can eat chinese buffet around the corner.... was great.. mix of sea food, grill and chinky stuff and salad and desert all for 1.50!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! man.. stuffed self silly then had wonder round the pedestrian streets wich looked like las vegas (not that ben there)... then we saw a live tango show in street. amazing moves and very entertaining.... donated some money for their efforts.. then we drank and played drinking games in the hostel duringthe party night... was just a dj, lights, ######### and cards.... very cool..... at 1am though decided against going to a trannie club as thought should save self and dough for followign night.

PS WEL DONE TO TRINITY BATTLE OF FLOWERS SENIORS FOR WINNING THE PARISH AWARD AGAIN AND THEN THE JUNIORS DOING THE DOUBLE WITH THE JUNIOR EXHIBITORS AWARD.. WAY HAY... am envious I can't be around but hey.

11th: wen shopping and had lunch in TGI fridays before heading to the Evita Peron museum. this lady, whose grave we went to see a few days before has this museum dedicated to her... is like a chronological resumé of her life, background and feminist and political doings that made her so famous and loved. was nice... then came back to h ill inthe hostel before going out on our big night.. cooked risotto and had more wine smuggled in.... me the irish, steve and others headed first to some local pubs, one of which irish so carnage there..called clover bless...talked to this one weird he/she and had couple pints... then hit annother bar where most of us had a mini popcordn fight in front of everyone oops...

then hit the Opera Bay huge club at like 2am when the scene was just starting.... brilliant night.. huge open spaces..diff rooms. clear glass windows with view out to city.. this pond.... all good.... came home at 7 30 am and thought nothing of it.

12th: rough as ducks arse, got up at 11 and headed to Recoleta district to indulge in ice cream.. then went around alone to see cathedral and plaza de mayo...presidential house and that.. these guards were taking the flag down and marching proudly so watched that for a while. evening time was spent wining and dining in the chique resto area..... had my sirloin steak finally... was succulent, huge, cooked perfectly and only 4quid man... woohooo.... had a drink in a nearby trendy bar too but then retired to the hostel to get kip that had been deprived of....

13th: a second sad farewell to the irish "twin" sisters mich and lisa. they had ben travelling for 10 weeks and werent impressed with the fact they were going home and even less so with the news and effects of the transatlantic london-new york liquid bomb scare ####... Am definitely going over to visit them sometime in the future and to discover a bit or Ireland. Will be sorly missed. After they left I transferred stuff to the hostel next door so to have more privacy and scope for chilling as opposed to marathon drinking temptations.....
had quite a productive day sight seeing.... though the famous boca juniors footie squad were playing away that weekend, I decided to go down to the stadium and have a guided tour and look at museum and hall of fame. was def worth it and got to press room, conference room, changing rooms, tunnel, pitch, stands, media boxes..... was fab..... then i strolled around the Boca district which is famous for its colourful buildings, cafes and tango bars lining the dock area.....is the working class dodgy area but makes up for this with itts charm and character during day time......live acts on streets.... skies were blue which was great also. whole differnt feel than santiago.

Was due to check out a huge market in the Recoleta area but sacked that one off in the end. Learnt it was Children's day so there was again some parade thing going on near cathedral. forgot to mention that there was this marathon thing with people dressed up as waitors etc the day befdore - no matter where you look, BA has original entertainment from all nooks n crannies. Decideded to take it easy and vegged out in the hostel for a while then met up wit Steve, Chad and Brett (US twins we met via Irish sisters) and we'z all went for an all you can eat buffed in a resto along the dock area. Was a little on the expensive side but ended up having many helpings from the grill and sald bar.....all types of steak and meats in abundance coming from all areas of different animals lol.. tasty. had unlimited free house wine and 1 desert also which was great....After went to Chad's pad and watched film and consumed more tinto wine before heading out one last time in BA by night.....He has been living in BA for the las month and a half you see and renting off locals.... cushty!
The whole city literally comes to a grinding halt ona Sunday as far as night life concerned but I just had to hold on to what I had left in the capital......think the poor nightlife was down to a mixture of weather, religion, recovering from thurs-sat nights out inclusive and money factors... but honestly... most bars shut completely in all neighbourhoods.... ended up playing team pool vs an Arentine trio and kicking ass.. headed to my pit at 5am as had to check out of hostel by 10am.

14th: last morning in the capital......all mates had gone or were leaving soon and was overcast so kinda glad leaving it behind. Still a hell of a lot of thinss i wanted to do and see but another time...another time..... won't be same without the familair faces on the positive side...was completely ready to come home after argentina/brazil until i got to buenos aires and fell for it...... then my good chums all abandoned me so again I felt nostalgic iel more ready to come home than stay... am SURE will change again once get to Iguazo Falls and Rio!!!!

So....yes folks enough whinging..... my last morning entailed a rushed japanese style walking tour of main historical and political buildings scattered throughout the huge city centre....went to another huge posh cemetery, the national congress, main square with the statue of liberator San Martin, visited the big ben clock tower lookalike.... kinda depressing leaving Buenos Aires.. if I hadn't bought my onward ticket to Rosario I soooooo would have stayed on a couple more days easily...

Bus ride to Rosario was pretty boring but once I got their I knew I had made the right decision... stumbled straight upon another party type hostel which was actually empty and from there planned my 24hour agenda....ended up walking round the city centre at night as was recommended by staff... pretty clean buildings lining the pedestran streets with effective illumination to enhance their beauty. liked the feel for the place instantly.

15th: Got out and about rather early so to fit all of it in... did a morning circuit of the centre and surroundings on foot...the huge Parque de la Independencia is a 150hectare complex of parks, gardens, mini lakes, stadiums, monuments, museums, theme park, horse-racing track and 2 stadiums..bordered by many avenues intersecting the greenery, it was a nice refreshing wake up.....many cyclists and joggers were doing circuits etc and learner drivers were practicing around. a real residential feel to the place... took me like 2hours to walk around the edges and see most of it. From there I headed south to the port area and bypassed the planetarium located in another nice segregated park space high up..... the view of the somewhat clean and very calm river Parana looked more like a coastal view from a Peninsula looking out to distant headland with housing on etc... A further few ks round at the edge of the centre and pedestrain high street was the colossal Monumento Nacional a la Bandera... a huge steep rectangular tower building dedicated to the country's national flag and designer General Manuel Belgrano..

the flag has a long history and the sky blue - white - sky blue horizontal stripes as we know them have an interesting history but basically ressemble the colours of Virgin Mary and her clothing but also it has military meaning.
belgrano's crypt was inside but unforunately the doors were closed when I got there, which also meant I couldn't go up the lift to the observatory point at the top from where a great view along the rive and inland to the city can be had....

Further down there was a little fountain and marble plaques honouring the "Forever Agrentine" claim to the Falkland Isles "Malvinas"... still a little sore point I believe through passing people on street and saying I'm British.

The monument is surrounded by huge sauring pillars with a flame lit on top of an altar thing inside. police guarded the confines like the buckingham palace. very patriotic. 2 mins up is the Plaza 25 de Mayo which houses the Cathedral just eclipsing the flag monument behind it. all very close and domineering.

The second half of the tour was a bus ride through the town and up the river banks as far as the "beach" zone and restaurants.... had lunch in a cafe overlooking the Parana river and the Isla Invernada opopsite....just didn't have enough time to take the short catamaran journey across to the Island and couldn't be doing with a mere bus journey over the impressive bridge and back without doing the place justice. Instead I sat down and watched the fishermen at work and dog walkers passing by... quite quiet but the sun was out and rahter strong yet not too hot... very peaceful and finally I could picture what summer would be like back home right now.. this huge cargo boat also passed along the river whilst consuming lunch so i got a nice photo of it passing under the not so high bridge... then walked along the sandy shores of Catalunya to Florida public beach (which one has to pay 56pence to enter lol)...bet the water is cleanish and certainly not cold... weird it's so beach-like. flat.....ripples....

By the time I walked the broadwalks and had got a bus back to the centre, it was nearly time to leave... had one more thing on the agenda which was Che Guevara's first residence..This revolutionary and Arentine-Cuban independence oportunist, medic by profession was born here in Rosario in 1928 and his family currently lived there... so he grew up for while on banks of the Parana before moving to Cordoba and Buenos Aires....great writer and international travellers, he is known world wide as a figurehead and even recognised as a sex symbol by many, his name resounds in Argentina to the extent of Evita Peron..... His house just looked like a normal atypical ppartment on one main avenue in the centre from the outside..cool. plan to check out his museum in Alta Gracia, Cordoba next.

Come tea time, I was once again on a bus with my legs knackered and still not back on form from Buenos Aires gallavanting.... had another interesting journey as our bus had arrived but was faulty so the dirver went off for half an hour to fix whatever and we all boarded again. Other passengers getting off at intermediary destinations had already boarded another sister company's bus but us lot got on the same one again... 3 hours in, the driver comes to grinding halt on motorway and says "it's broken".. nothing seemed at all faulty but anyhow.. was drizlling and cold on the exposed barren highway......All had to get off and wait for a notehr service passing by shortly.. sure enough, 20mins later we were back on our way but had to get off at the terminating destination and wait for anotehr bus half an hour later, to take us all the way to Cordoba...a further 2 hours.... was rough and got here at 2am this morning... shall see what Argentina's second largest adn exceptionalyl cultural city has to offer for 2 days max.... the race against time is still on......

2 weeks to go so the anticipation and mixed/conflicting emotions are beginning to kick in.... am I ready, am I not?!

Hasta pronto ",)

Saturday, August 05, 2006

10) Salut.

Here follows my accounts from the second half or so of Chile to arrival in ARGENTINA:

(16th July cont'nd):
My was I glad to have made the right decision to leave Antofagasta the same day of arrival... for some reason, the moment I got off the bus I didn't get one good vibe about the place - seemed creepy, smelly, dirty, noisy, depressing... As I touched on in the last chapter, I merely strolled around the central grid as far as the port..apparently there is a worthy arch several Ks out of the city but I couldn't be arsed to go that far..... full stop!

(17th): Accordingly I jumped on a night bus service to La Serena, arriving at 9am here....To my delight I felt at home there...a new region again, it was characterised by much greenery, a mild temperature, a nice town centre with normal people busying around.... becoming a lot more Europeanafied now... it's still in northern Chile considering how long and slim the country is.

To elaborte, the nation is divided into 12 named regions, of which one can subdivide into the north x 2, middle / lake district and south/patagonia with tierra del fuego(antartica gateway) as a little extra chunk........

Bakck to the thread..............In La Serena, the huge arid Atacama desert has finally come to and end! There was a handy tourist info kiosko at the terminal which I made great use of first thing in the morn.....managed to select a commendable accommodation option and accumulated all info regarding sights, maps and tours available as feasible within my 3 day limit. Initially I made meself comfy at the home... again very similar in nature to the Iquique crazy family-run place....beats it on all fronts other than absence of wacky guests...this sweet cute old couple (so not "Chilean"-like in appearance hence almost British grandparent material) take in Chilean uni students and foreign exchange students/teachers alike all year through and now recently toursity muppets like moi....Husband reminds me of Papa Joe from Charlie and Chocolate factory or Pinochio's "father" lol.....so yes, they have communal lounge and dining room with kitchen use facilities and really nice boiling hot powerful showers and fully functioning electrics etc... tranquil also as outside the busy centre...

They were interested in my travels and tales.... then they prepared for me a posh biscuit and coffee late brekkie and brought it to my room on a tray!!! bless 'em lordie....Also they weren't as pushy to organise tours and have payment up front like Germans... Once freshened up, I made my way into town (no rest for the wicked) and proper Japanese style, used my map like a bible and took loadsa snaps of the square, buildings, churches, parks (one of which was a beautiful japanese style botanical and ornamental garden with water flowing in etc.... peaceful with swans, stone lanterns and all that.....garden was made to strengthen commercial and cultural affiliations with Japan and this twin city of La Serena... unusual but nice)....
what more? Arts and Crafts market, shopping mall.... did the lot... as the following day I had booked myself on an all day combo excursion entailing the Elqui valley and this star & planet watch at night from observatory tower thing.... Then the following day I planned to spend going out of the city and to neighborouring districts, one whose architecture ressembles English style...... had to do it all there and then!

Had this cool cheapo local typical dinner at this restaurant overlooking an arts and crafts plaza.. the barman/waitor was crazy and an eager foreign lingo learner so he was coming out with all these phrases in english french and spanish alike.... has a whole wall dedicated purely to photos of guests dining there over the years.. very chatty chap! That saw me through the evening alright..

18th: my 15hour wicked tour of the valley of Elqui and Mamalluca astrological research and observation centre at night.... day started by being picked up in minibus from accommodation and beginning our guided drive into the depths of the valley with various stops on the way. First main one was at this enormous Papaya and Chirimoya plantation (THE region of the mentioned fruit cultivation in Chile). With harvesting season near (August), we were able to grab a few of the fruit of the vines and sample them direct...quite mature so very sweet and tasty..more so than papaya as a juice fruit which tastes like vomit in my opinion...tis rather acidic for me and not yummy. we then progressed to the sales counter and had a roam around.....
Aboard the bus was a French Polynesian couple form the Island of Tahiti (near Fiji) as well as an old Chilean couple on vacation from the south and then 2 crazy Colombian girls (Emilia and Yasmin) now living and working here. So a nice number & mix.....
A second noteworthy stop was at this dam..... the rivers that flow through the valley (more like streams at best), are so weak that they built this dam to act as a reservoir to suppy the region with the water needed year round ie irrigation and for consumption. lovely area... by this time the sun was incredibly strong and no wind.... this is winter time too! Thirdly. we had a walking guided tour of the country's prime Pisco factory...

like brandy or whisky I guess but made from grapes, processed as one would for wine initially then transofrmed into Pisco somehow....Chilean guide was speaking so fast and with poor diction I had trouble to follow plot like man..
So we saw all the funnels and cannisters used for each key stage in the fermenting and distilling then bottling process in the factory along high tech conveyor belts and all that...stank to high heavens..some people faint apparently lol! drunk on air and oxygen-starved. easy way to get high eh.. To top all this off, we had a mini sampling sesh...goodness knows which of the dozen or so varieties I tried. Tasted good all the same. most important part of course.... Finally, we had the opportunity to purchase some freshly bottled items.. Due to practical reasons, I only took 3 miniatures away too add to my ever-increasing baggage... After an intense morning, our appetite was finally quenched in this small town Paihuano: 3 course average meal. Following on, we stopped off at Montegrande... and had some minutes to stroll around the tiny village centre......ending up in the old house/school where a Nobel Peace Prize winner lived her name is Gabriela Mistral. v famous.

Several Ks on, we had again another walk..in Vicuna.... larger but still not much going on there...main attraction is surroundings and the peaceful atmosphere. Here our day tour ended and most of the crew had free time to spend eating and wondering more before our night outing to Mamalluca.

At 8pm, we were picked up to climb 1000m above sea level to the peak of the town where this famous astronomical centre is based. The skies were incredibly clear and still with stars littered everywhere so we were lucky... Come 10pm we had a short but incredibly informative and enlightening presentation about the centre, the stars and planets and moons one can see plus a power point interactive explanation of how the galaxy operates and that. Wow! From there, we were sub-grouped into smaller parties and each had their own designated guide... we first went out to one huge telescope whose mirror is only 30cm in diameter but incredibly strong... using this bright illuminous green light, our dude indicated the various stars, constellations, planet Jupiter and 2 galaxies (looking like streams of cloud in distance)...then one by one, we had a clsoer look through the scope at the above-mentioned, individually... though they were merely amplified let's say, still impressive.... Jupiter was vivid from the other stars, we saw the southern cross, scorption, sagittarious thing, 4 moons orbiting Jupiter and 2 neighbouring galaxies, recognisable as long thin streams of cloud.... the 2 curved arms of the milky way were also notable! never seen anything so clear. Our turn then came to go up to the mamma telescope and view more stuff. proper revolving domes and zoom lenses etc.. def worth every penny in my opinion.
Returned at midnight to the hostel and was absolutely wacked. Turned dwon offer to go to Casino.

19th: inevitably I lay in and around middday arrived at the neighbouring city, the 4th region's capital, Coquimbo. only 15minutes bus ride out of La Serena. Despite conflicting opinions as to how nice the place was, I was pleasantly surprised and set about exploring. Went to the mirador first

....and after a sweaty steep climb up to one of the many hills, I arrived at the Cruz del Tercer Milenio (3rd milenium cross)...close up, an ugly concrete plain imposing cross, but from far and at night with illumination, a wonderful 360o panaormaic view from lifts. Didn't wana pay the entrance fee to go up, so just observed the city from above at the first level. Could see church spires, the coast line as far as La Serena amongst other things. Kinda got lost moping around the isolated hilltop communities along windy dirt tracks and got scared by barking ill-looking dogs...........
but eventually came back down to earth and from there headed in the direction of the English quarter or Barrio Ingles. Self-explanatory from its title, the English architecture is evident. The couple of squares and several blocks were done up in 2004. 0rigin of the stlye comes from Sir Frances Drake who embarked here on his sails in 16th century?.......... area is scattered with pubs and houses like those in Oliver Twist I guess...Notting Hill area maybe?.
Then I walked further along the coastline as fas as the Coquimbo fort (Fuerte de Coquimbo). quite small and plaint but effective. nice sound of the waves crushign against the rocks and all.

After 5 hours of touring I made my way back to La Serena and checked out of the residencial. Had to pass 7 hours though as night bus leaving at 1am... decided on cinema and saw a film called Poseidon.....very short and not that gripping so not overly impressed....less romantic version of Titanic lol....

20th: As dreaded, my night bus to Valparaiso (Valpo) was somewhat delayed with one of the more dodgy companies. Nonetheless, we set one our ways and safely arrived there at breakie time. Went to the first party-type hostal the Lonely Planet recommended (El Yoyo) like and woke one of the several wacky "administrators" up who went promptly back to bed...Likewise, I crashed out in a dorm til noon.
Awake, I rang Em & Yaz, those Colombian chicks I went on tour with and since they had already arrived and were beginning their sight-seeing, I joined them. We did a tiring city walking tour - highlights were the many different ships docked in the port and harbour ranging from passenger and cargo ferries to imposing massive second hand jobbies (British bought ships used in Falklands)...

All impressive... Emilia bargained us a little power boat private tour round the harbour to get close up. Another famous thing Valpo boasts is its numerous external lifts climbing diagonally up the sides of its many hillsides. We went for Concepcion, the oldest and best allegedly. From the top we got a nice birds' eye view of the port area of the city though the skies were ominously grey. Lunch was another thumbs up - bussed it to one of the beachfronts and were recommended a delicious seafood resto. To end our outing, we passed through the main assests of they city eg parks, squares, arts and crafts fair, and went inside the remarkable cathedral. Since it was Yasmin's birthday that day, she decided to go out on the lash naturally.

We parted company and I got merry at my hostal amidst the party atmosphere before meeting up again.The hostal ppl were even cooking a BBQ on the street side which was authentic. Being a Friday night and all in this vibrant student city, we thought it best to go out lateish....mistake: first call was a write-off : landed in this posh coupley showoff salsa/jazz club with 2 different rooms and table service. After sitting down at a table moping and watching the pro's at it ie feeling inferior and out of place, we headed out for somewhere more happening. The other recommended place had a ridiculous queue so we headed for somewhere else. La Torre it was: evidently a rowdy immature student night with unique clientele. We blagged it as ignornat foreigners and were shown in. Cover charge was equivalent of 2quid but we were EACH given a free 1.5l of beer lol.?! nonsense! Music was typically studenty with the latino reggatone appearing amongst the cheese and dance. Had fun boogying but was a meat market scene.

21st: taxi guided tour of Valpo's highlands and neighbouring Laguna Verde.

Rather than coughing up ripoff amounts for a tour, the 3 of us outlined our preferences and negotiated a fixed price for a 2hour or so guided ride around the city's outskirts. We scaled the hills, stopped at miradores to appreciate the view, drove along the windy and steep coastline towards Laguna Verde, a semi isolated beach town with no tourism at this time of year.... After the girls had got their shoes and socks wet due to strong unforseeable brisk tidal movements, we were dropped off in a high neighbourhood in Valpo where we would descend gradually, freestyle. On the way, we thought it only right to stop off at Pablo Neruda's house (one of 3 famous houses). This gentleman is a famous poet, writer and multi-international ambassador/political figure who was loved and admired by many in his time...Friends with likes of Picasso. Today, his old house La Sebastiana, very much still in its orignal ship-like form with magnificant view of city, is a musem open to general public. Cool.
Another late fish lunch was eaten at a restaurant beside the one we ate at the previous day haha. Come 5pm, we headed for the cities only true traditional vertical lift, Polanko, accessed via a tunnel carved through the rockface. From the heights, we scanned the skies taking in the silhouettes of the hills in the distance, the many multicoloured houses and the sea extending out...... In the eve, we had heard talk of an Easter Island party or Fiesta Pasquense, going on at a jetty. Our premature arrival at the gig was in vain but proved interesting while it lasted.... the 2 separate indigenous groups were only seting up stage and warming up instruments and voices but we heard a few tunes for free and saw an OHP video of the island's customs and scenery. Bored stiff by midnight and tired, we decided to get outta there.

22nd: made tracks to Vina Del Mar, Valparaiso's neighbouring huge city just 10minutes along the coastline. Me and Las Colombianas made our way there via overland train service and got off in a very different environment. Vina is much more elegant, expensive, green, quiet, residential and pretty much FLAT. Different also in the sense of scenery - rather than industial, naval, busy Valpo, Vina is commercial, cosmo and cultural. Knowing the steep prices of accommodation, we went straight to tourist office and ended up in this cushty hotel with Argentinian owners. Had tripple room with private bath which didnt work out that much more than the norm when split equally so yay hosay! Brekkie incl. and gorgeous shower and cable TV.

For they day, nothing much was planned but we called off at la Quinta Vergara landscape park inside which is found the huge permanent stage for the famous music festival held annually in March. Besides that, there are huge labelled trees planted from all corners of the world from New Z to US and a palace type residence now home to a museum. Can see why Jesse (American dude I meant in Iquique, north Chile) loves the place so much ...chilling and reading in park. (Incidentally, there was no news of his return to his student exchange town, so no possibility of meeting up to get to experience the student nightlife grr.) Had aaaaaaanother late luncheon - cheap mixed grill meal including a scummy "blood pudding" chunk. The girls then got a little carried away with selves and decided we were all going to go on a pointless short horse and trap ride through the main avenues leading over the bridge towards the seafront....chilly to in the back! Think was just due to novelty of whole thing. After getting a glimpse of the main landmarks and all, we made it for the shopping mall parade....for some reason I was itching to go back to the cinema again and so parted ways breifly from ma bitches and saw the over-rated Pirates Of Caribbean II while Em and Yaz shopped till dropped. That night there ended up being 2 more colombian females sleeping in our room....No, they were friends of the girls' so we ended up being in a mixed drom based setting after all haha. Was great!

23rd: Brekkie virtually served to bed.... had it brought in to our room on trays if you please...very formal lol....cheap luxury i say... had some yummy chicken paste paté thing on bread amongst other things. impressed. A lazy Sunday started off witha visit to the Fonck museum. Really enjoyed it considering how museum-orientated I am normally..... was a diverse and informative museum dedicated to revealing the archeaology, customs, flora and fauna of Rapu Nui (Easter Isle a flight away in the Pacific off Middle Chile)......stuff on show ranged from scarily life-like stuffed native mammals, birds, insects ranging from siamese lambs to spiders and jaguars..... Finally, the sun was shining so we grabbed the opportunity to take another of our personally programmed taxi circuit tours....well the Colombians did all the talking and organising.
We got a 3.5hour comprehensive tour of Vina and its neighbouring towns for the same price as our Valpo one. Baaargain! The itinerary consisted of many stop-offs: First up was the sport club bearing traits of English style eg cricket pavillion type architecture, horse race track and athletics field. Then we drove up a hill to a watchpoint from where the curvy coastline and central Vina could be admired.....even Valpo in the distance.

The skies were now clear which made all the diff....next brief stop was at Estadio Sausato and its adjacent Laguna on whch stands a flating disco...all different and noteworthy sights adding to Vina's prestige. From here, our tour took us out of the city and along two pretty coastal towns: Renaca had a long strip of coastline with sandy swimming beaches and purely restaurants side by side for a whole stretch on the main road, then Concon further out was even more quiet and exposed with nice jaggered volcanic rocks. Heading back towards Vina, we got off to browse a beachside temporary arts and crafts market set up on the green promenade. Our tour ended at the Reloj de Flores, a clock carved out of bushes and flowers.

Feeling weary and in need of saving a little, we all agreed on buying ourselves a nice carton of chilean table wine and some crisps and made full use of our cable TV facilities back at the hotel ie watching movie in our jamas (pretty decent "Enemy in the House" with John Travolta).

24th: boarded a Santiago bound bus and arrived to the smog and clouds of the capital an hour and half later in a chaotic bus terminal......Colombinas ended their journey here as had to return to work in Curico so I wished them well...... checked straight in to the Casa Roja hostel no hesitation...everyone raves about it and it's always full. Though a bit over-priced, it certainly compensates with facilities and services - huge communal kitchen with 3 of everything like, separate dining hall, passages and halls with seating areas, Tv, ping pong, annexed travel agency, nice unisex toilet/shower blocks, cheap nice full brekkie and spacious comfy dorm beds....what more could a backpacker wish for?!

By the time I had dumped gear and check in, I wasn't too motivated to go explore the city that afternoon, espcially since it was a Monday ie museums and touristy shit all closed completely as if Sunday. What I did manage to achieve was basically a once over of the main square and beautiful cathedral, obtain a map and info from tourist office, stroll the pdestrain arcades and catch a glimpse of some other governmental and judiaical buildings...only a fraction of Satnaigo. All very European-American in style and feel. I was really surprised just how much influence there was. Certainly didn't feel as if I were in Chile as I knew it before. Distances were pretty long though so I ended up returning via the clean and effective metro.....Just as I was about to enter the hostel, I bumped into Steve (other guy I met in Iquique and then again in San Pedro)...Chatted for a while and caught up before plonking our butts down in front of Tv to watch an entertaining Miss Universe final.

25th: Having put my name down to go skiing in Los Andes the night before, the conditions were extreme so was unable to go skiing that day in one of the countries best resorts (La Nevada). Snow was falling like soldiers on a world war battlefield thus the road was closed down goin up the mountains. In drizzle and cloud and nippy temperatures, I compromised by doing a self-planed once over walking tour of some of the capital's landmarks. The day started by climbing Cerro Santa Lucia (hill). I had the pleasure of seeing the capital as a faint ghost city but the overall picture was good eg skyscrapers, outlines of mountains....The green hill with a small plaza, several statues, mini waterfalls inside, is randomly plonked just east of the city centre so it was a little weird. Surely a nice refuge on a busy sunny working day at lunchtime. Completely deserted of course as raining but I was determined to give the city justice.

Secondly, I visited another of Pablo Neruda's houses "La Chascona" in the Bellavista barrio - a district defined by nice cafes, restaurants, bright buildings....... The other side of the Mapocho river bisecting the city, it was just as impressive as the Valparaiso house, very narrow, creeking floors inclined and carved like a ship's deck with winding staircases and collections of all description. After the guided tour, I made my way to the nearby Parque Metropolitano set on a another huge mound, the largest open space in the city. That afternoon I had booked myself in for a wine tasting session at a renowned vineyard several dozens of Ks outside Santiago. To pass the time, I had a look at the national zoo within the park's confines.
Contrary to other gringo's impressions, I thought it was great..... Animals from all corners of the globe side by side whose enclosures gradually followed the hill up on several platforms.Was rushed for time so didn't get to see it all but took pics of polar bears, sea lions, camels, elephants, hippos, lions, kangaroos you name it.... Aall right in the heart of the country's smog-ridden and noisy capital, but sufficiently distanced and in adequate surroundings....There was this huge multistorey bird cage sanctuary with natural flora in it... Was as if the birds were flying free over the city... the range of birds would have satisfied the avid birdwatcher for sure.

So in the aftee, I jumped on the user-friendly metro and headed for the "Concha Y Toro" winery. I had underestimated the timings and distances somewhat so I got to the last train station when I should have been starting my tour. The connecting bus service made me half an hour late so I switched to a tour in Spanish.....The outing consisted of a video presentation on the area, country's wine products and areas of grape cultivation etc and history of this particular vineyard...

before tasting one fine red wine in the proper manner... 3 distinct stages:
(1) hold the glass properly and swirl the wine to expose the flavours for 10mins after a bottle has been freshly opened - oxidation and all this lark...... (2) slant the glass 45degrees adn observe the colouring and reflection of the wine and smell to get acquainted with its properties. (3) taste...... we couldn't really go walkabout as it was boggy and drizzling still so had this done under cover opposite the grounds. Tooka photo or two of the vineyard from a distance but nothing more.
After the first tasting session, we were given the wine glass as a souvenir and proceded inside to the storage area where the different barrels were found from varying harvests....then came an explanation of the difference in use of the French and American style barrles with differnt wood and lengths of use and ageing to obtain naturally different smells and tastes eg vanilla, chocolate, cherry..... From here we had aour second red taster...generous third of a glass in fact.... very different from the first one but fine all the same. Thirdly we made our way to the cellars where we had a more in depth talk about the area and it's history including a non-scary overhead narration about a dark legend/myth. Our excursion ended with the chance to try more varieties at a posh bar, at a price of course.... tapas and chocolates were also on offer but I declined. Similarly, the staff in the shop were very keen to sell off their pricy bottles of varying sizes, types and years..... I was content with my glass and thought I could always buy a cheapo bottle from a local supermarket bearing the winery's label at least!

Travelling back to the hostel in the dusk, I had an intersting encounter with a local delinquant. In the main square, I was chomping away at a pastie (empanada), when this foolish teenager who looked either simple-minded, drunk or rude, suddenly demanded it off me....literally said "give me it" not in threatening manner though. thought that funny so just handed it over half eate. the cheek!

Wondering what constructive activiy I could do that evening, I stopped by at the municipal theatre asking after productions currently on. not tempted by the ballet, I saw posters advertising the Lord of the Dance......... unfortunately, this had ended the weekend before at the stadium's arena stage..would have been spectacular.... Ended up getting takeaway Domino's pizza with English Steve and sitting in front of the TV again.....very original but needed the rest. My main concern was to assure my ascent to the ski resort the next day or the day after.... with weather condiditons still very unfavourable and hardly any names on list interested, I weighed up my options and decided to go with the hostel on the Thursday 27th, my last day in the capital...rather than organising it solo and risking disappointment. The weather was due to clear up Thursday and thought may as well go up with company from the hostel. Had all kit ready to go and all.....

26th: hmmmmmm a second day wonering around another chunk of the capital in the RAIN and cold......this time round though, I certainly exploited the metro network and used it at every chance lol. I awoke to the news that the road to the better ski slope was still closed and it was still snowing heavily thus not good for recreational use. Glad......the sights I got in included the O'Higgins Park where the stadium is, a small theme park and walking circuits. everything was semi waterlogged so this wasn't bright of me....
Following on, I discovered the judicial/admin/governemtnal ministery area of La Moneda..... saw the oddly shaped stock exchange thing, the governemtnal palace, and different ministery buildings. Very European like here with soldiers patrolling round... Pm: went back to the municipal park zone to TRY to see some of its vast area beyond the zoo..... had no choice but to take up the wagon-type diagonal lift straight to the summit rather high up... then at least could walk around up there and try to come down on foot. The mist was thick and the rain constant so only saw a church, huge statue of the virgin visible from street level, and a faint panaorama of the city, river and mountains. Again, definitely superb on a fine day but not for stubborn me!

At 680m up with a helter skelter type main road descent down, I opted for the cable car route down to another side of the hill.....there was so much more to see eg botanical gardens, park, waterfalls, plazas, but just was not feasible...... the cable car ride was merely serving as transport as the windows were misted over with rain drops on the glass...with the thick vegetation and trees I scraped past, it didn't seem as if I was in a huge smog-ridden capital city. It took a good 20minutes to get down again and I ended up in the middle of nowhere lol.... my map didn't reach this zone so I followed intuition and attempted to find way back to the centre.... I was in a rich district, full of small cul-de-sacs and semi detached decent housing with lamps on streets, green patches and little traffic. Again, starkly different form the centre. It was a good way to unintentionally get a feel for this neighbourhood lol.....

Sure enough, found way back to main avenues before long and from there went to the general cemetery and central market to finish off my circuit. Well, the cementery was nothing like anything I had even seen before..... each family had their own plot dedicated to their deceased but it wasn't just a family coffin spot... No, they each have this locked up ornate religious hut building thing like a mini sanctuary wth flowers and decorations around. inside are resting several members of the family...looks v posh an expensive but guess they just v religious. So by the time I had returend t the hostel I was pretty soaked but glad I had done the basics just to say so lol. Felt rather in need of socialising that night so went out in the local Brasil district to a couple of bars and bought a couple of 1.5l bottles of beer..... no time to eat but we seemed to be served salty popcorn by default for each round. odd but welcomed as substitue for tea. Then we made a trip to the offy and took home some beverages to the hostel.... then came the task of packing!

27th: Well I must have got rather merry as the following morning I couldn't remember paying for my ski hire and woke with a headache, dehydrated and all......... The day was crystal clear, sun shining and heat pleasant.. no clouds in sight or smog so the city had a whole differnt feel to it upon sunrise at 6am ish... pretty actually... mountains surrounding it on all corners..... left for ski resort at 7am and was snoozing in the minibus, half taking in the sights around us on our climb up to the mountains. had to put chains on the bus half way up as the roads were still being cleared of the inches deep snow that had been falling the two days before. was rather dodgy but made it up fine... the roadway to La Nevada was gonna be shut until lunchtime so in the end we had to settle for La Parva resort next door after all...second best out of 3 apparently.

The drinking and lack of sleep took its toll on me as I wasn't motivated to spend a whole day on the slopes being the beginner-intermediate I am. From what I could gather, the runs were quite good but I only succeeded in spending the morning slot pathetically descending a couple of slopes, stopping to take photos more than get into the skiing part *ehem*.....had. a couple of falls and a very near full speed collision (brushed against me) with some clumsy crazy Chilean trying to cut ahead of me..... chilled with some of the group in the restaurant for the rest of the day reading, chilling, chatting and in front of fire......glad I made it in the end but not in the best conditions or situation lol.... reminded me of skiing in Sierra Nevada, Spain near Granada two years ago.... Also, didn't wanna over do it since had the joy of travelling 11 hours south to the lake district in middle Chile that night on night bus.... What I deemed ample time to get to hostel, freshen up and get to bus station on metro turned out to be a mad rush..... the return trip back to Santiago took like 3 and half hours since the roads were chocka with traffic and we often came to a grinding halt on the mountain hills in the pitch black. o wel.

28th: The night bus was the best yet "semi bed executive" class, but it was a vvvvv cold ride.....when I arrived in Pucon, I was amazed to see clear skies and no rain......seemed to be havin a lucky run of good weather against the odds of the season... pure rain, cold, wind.... the town was very very pretty.. tranquil.... reminded me of swiss, german or french country hamlets..... basic centre grid of streets and all the village like shops with a bias towards tour agencies of course.... the country-like housing had smoke coming from chimeneys and all that... got a real winter wonderland feel for the area after wondering around the nippy centre for a whole hour with accommodation lists, I landed right on my feet and this sweet lady's house with guest rooms for lodging.. very helpful, non business like appraoch.. chatted away about the area and all that. very interested in my travels. genuinely friendly.. room was like a box but cosy. had kitchen facilities, gas heated shower, and good company.. no more needed. Aga powered by wood as fuel. very authentic and rustic... was only 5mins walk from the stunning lake Villarica...
Had tried to get the seemingly cheapest accommodatoin on offer but by no means the most basic digs (house right on shore with full ammenities?!), but no one answered. I was more than content to have the reception I got and the company of 1 other gringo at my place. even got discount for being a non chilean traveller. peak season is THEIR summer hols ie DEC-JAN so all good.

Pondering over and over exactly how long to hang around in this picturesque town...weighing up time factors, potential weather hazards and money issues.... priority was to find out weather forecast and check out tour options since the area has sooo much to offer...... went to a couple of agencies who had rip off prices, but in the end I was grabbed by one company offering a special combo tour 2 for price of 1: tour of the zone in bus followed by sunset bathing in natural hot springs (termas)....was practical so didn't hesitate to jump aboard.... we got a short guided tour of the surrounding countryside of Pucon including several smaller lakes, 2 interlocking rivers (Turbio & Trancura), Ojos de Caburga (several streams of water entering a common pool) and many cascades/rapids on the rivers ideal for hardcore rafters. We finished up at the Caburga lake behind which reside the country's A-list celebs include the president... The lake has natural beachs but now in winter the tide level has covered them considerable. interesting.
The imposing white-covered but active and smoking Volcan Villarica (Volcano) could be seen from differnt angles inthe near distance. Strange contrast of pumping smoke seeming to come from a white-covered cone-shaped mountain in between purely green landscape. Weird. Knew I was going to overstay my allocated time there but didn't mind it one bit! Though the wind was strong and nippy, one didn't notice it at all in awe! From there we headed to the hot springs or thermal pools, very rustic and varying in temperatures considerably..

all water coming down from the mountains so fresh as. This was the ideal way to chill out after a hectic time in Santiago and an overnight bus.... got inside one external pool which was like 50 degrees no joke. took me 10 whole mins to get in and then couldn't move for fear of scolding. was nice stationary though. The other pools were warm and luke warm, 2 covered pools and 2 external muddy/gritty hole type excavations lol. loved it! stars were appearing as the sun set which added to the experience. All worth it after all. Wound down well then got early night.

29th: No rest for wicked attitude....enrolled the same night with same company to climb the massive Volcan Villarica for a rather expensive fee... Though we were glad to have been blessed with the sun and no rain, the conditions proved too treacherous like.... a third of the way up the mountin mid morning, still within the confines of the ski resort (chairlifts almost around us etc though resort closed), we just had to head back.... were kitted out like men climbing Everest with poles, ice axe, goggles, waterproofs and layers of clothing and ample food, we had lived a little of the experience at least... The winds were beyond gale force, and we had approached the main ascent to the crater with steeper slopes and inches and inches of snow to contend with as well.. Visibility was poor, snow was swirling everywhere and the wind was biting..it was hard to stay upright.... all other agencies had decided the same so no one could reach the summit that day.. peace of mind haha!!! There was a good 5 hours climbing left to do so we would have rached the summit beyond the cut-off point of 3pm anyhow....crazy! soooo instead we took time climbing down and took many photos of the area and volcano .impressive topography.

No refunds available of course so we agreed to stick around at the foot and myself, a fearful Irish lass Sarah and a Chilean bloke Gonzalo built snowmen and continued to wonder around in our gear etc... bit disappointed but glad to be back to the ground. By the way, the active volcano has apparently been long overdue an explosion but the warning scale indicator is at low right now!?!?! don't know how reliable this may be lol! Even though we only got a third of the way up, I was shattered from all this malarky....... later that afternoon I wondered around the centre of Pucon some more and bumped into the 2 english guys I wenton the pampas/savanna tour with in Bolivia lol.... Ian and Taz had been in Pucon for a few days and had bypassed most of Chile hence our random meeting... They mentioned they were going to the Huerquehue National Park the next day, another of the main highlights of the area.... Conscient I should really leave the next day in the evening latest, I ended up deciding to go with them and booking my bus to Puerto Montt. Night I just ended up taking refuge in the house and chatted to my fellow resident, an erratic German girl..... that was nice enough of course....

30th: after a short bus ride to the park entrance, the three of us Brits went off exploring on a trail alone instead of hiring a guide. we were informed at the entrance that due to the weather of course, most of the park was inacessible (snow-covered)...that was fine for me as I could only spend 5 hours max in the confines which was enough.....we took the 7km "3 lakes path" which began in woodland/forest areas then led into wet boggy land and finally up windy narrow passages clearly identifable form the clearing work done by the rangers. Felt like we were in the Chronicles of Narnia/The Snowman film with branches and leaves with snow or frost on everywhere...dodgying around and ducking below all this.... very slippery also....
The highlights were 2 waterfalls and 2 watchpoint openings allowing panoramas. I knew I wouldn't reach the end of the only open path within 3 hours in time to catch the bus 2hours later, so we went more slowly than some other groups.... the waterfalls were powerful and beautiful.... one had smaller waterfalls entering pools then a main one crushing down and spraying us..... from the watchpoints the whole width of the lake and surrounding landscape were visible as was the volcano in the distant background... an ideal painting opportunity for the keen artist...precious!

After chomping at lunch quickly, I said my second goodbye to the English couple and scarpered back to the beginning... Had 2 hours to kill in Pucon before transfer down to Puerto Montt so I walked the shore of Lake Villarica and took more photos....activities weren't going on so it was nice to see it "unspoilt". Spent the last bit of time with the host family who I was sad to leave frankly.... the woman reminded me of my great aunty Mary visually!

6 hours later, I arrived in P.Montt, the end of the Lake District and gateway to northern Chilean Patagonia alike... here the mainland splits into the Island of Chiloe etc and other islands on the pacific side and the Carretera Austral starts benneath P.Montt. At 10pm, the port town was damn cold...... had been recommended a hostel form the Pucon lady so I just taxied it there not taking chances. Aaparently fake hostal-promoting folk linger around the terminal and take you out to remote areas and the rest is left for the imagination.....Was greeted by this posh but crazy (originally Buenos Aires born lady) who asked me to take off shoes and gave me sandals to wear as if I were in a German household etc... upstairs I had my bed with electric blanket waiting for me.... niiiiice treat not rejected.....

31st: Awoke unsure what to expect from the town in terms of weather or things to do......... spoke with the landlady and weighed up options... she had 2 cute but hyper dogs - mother & daughter dancing champions apparently... many photos of them around the kitchen and they were spoilt rotten.... Shakira and Cookie they were...

Anyway, I heard there was a 10hour boat leaving that lunchtime for Chaiten on the Carretera Austral....otherwise I could get a bus straight to Bariloche, Argentina...or stick around... The weather was still pretty fair despite forecast for rain/snow/wind/cold so I jumped on the ferry without thinking too mch about it..... Was the only foreigner aboard the pretty reasonable car ferry and had a good seat... mainly went on it to defy nature and say I had been to Chilean Patagonia in the heigh of their winter whilst the UK had been "suffering/revelling" in a long-lasting heat wave lol...... knew transport from isolated Chaiten to the bordering town of Futaleufu wouldn't be daily and heavily weather/demand dependent but wasn't bothered at this stage.... Hmm....... was happily exploring the decks and taking in the coastal and insular scenery...
As the ugly and boring Puerto Montt/Chilean mainland faded in the distance, soon came blocks of land to the left and right of the ship.... headlands of Chiloe Island could be made out half way along the journey with mountains appearing inbetween the green mounds.....sunset was a great orange/purple over towards the Chiloe direction. Had onboard refreshments and TV and 2 nice Chilean girls to ask advice from....... Got to Chaiten at 10pm and immediately felt the sub zero welcome....-15oC? luckily enough the deal is that free public minibuses drive down to collect passengers arriving from north and drop off northbound passengers alike.. so I just jumped in 1 van and headed to his home....again a great family set up in Hospedaje Anita...... had my own small box wooden room in the attic...was glad to be indoors....Anita has 4 teenage kids and was putting up other national folk when I got there so I was just an addition to the whole affair... Her kitchen had an aga in it and all, so was loving it. Didn't takew long to take shelter in my bed. Slightly antisocial but tough.

1st: The fun begins.. Welcome to a world semi cut off from the rest in the sense of transportation..... kinda took it for granted that I was gonna get a bus the following day or morning the day after but oh no. After my basic brekkie served by the maid, I headed to the joke of a bus terminal... staff werent even there, just chilling in their shack of a house next door..... was informed the next bus was late afternoon on 2nd for Futaleufu (Argentine border town pretty much parallel in latitude) or morning of 3rd down to Cohaique (12 hours south along the stunning Carreterra Austral and near another Argentina border down ie middle Patagonia)...Well I was kinda freaked by this news and that a change in weather was due any moment potentially affecting the transport lol.. Ferry back to Puerto Montt was on Fri 4th and there was only 1 daily flight back there with 10passengers only lol... Hmmmmmmm There and then I knew I had made a little mistake in going that far south in the country but instead of venturing further south still and subsequently reducing time in Argentina, I booked the Futaleufu bound bus for the 2nd meaning I had to pass a day and a half there..... no toursit around at all so felt unique............ many businesses and restaurants closed due to virtually no need to be open lol except Nov-April....weather coooooooooooooooooooooooool and windy otherwise.......
not much entertainment so I made friends with the Canadian bus company owner and pursued to accompany him for the afternoon since his Chilean wife and kids were away on vacation......Niko was cool but strange... proposed we go to nearby national park or glaciers far out but I preferred staying indoors and asked info on the region... Finally, he offered to take me round in his van....I mean, Chaiten consists of merely 6 rocky road running north-south and about the same east-west for 1km max.. Evryone one knows each other scenario....... got to see the town park, and museum proudly guarded by the military..... had free once over tour of the museum detailing the engineering masterpiece that is the "Carretera Austral", as well as historical elements on the area. The Carretera (road) streches tens of Ks south linking isolated settlements surrounded by mountains and small lakes/fjords. Was hoping to get at least a bus ride half way down but schedules weren't on my side.... had a fine steak for dinner to warm the cockles up.... was only guest of course lol so good service....spent night doing lazy stuff indoors obviously.

2nd: one more morning to pass in this exposed, isolated tiny (provincial CAPITAL)....

Now the rain and thus snow further north had well and truly come.....awoke half fearing cancellation of bus or delays etc.... but was convinced not a problem.....actually attempted to walk along the seafront to get a view of what was beyond... nothing much....went to see Niko again and hung around a bit talking about all sorts to pass time..... also spent time with the host family as well but I had seen pretty much all of the town that was sanely achievable on foot. The second stressful event happened on our way to Futaleufu.... the bus was a clapped out people carrier with only 4 other passengers inside.. I mean it had been suggested to me to try to hitch hike all the way there the day before or ask at the petrol station... but was unlikely anoyone going that way at this time of year and I didn't fancy stadning outside in the bitter cold with heavy suitcase and sticking my thumb out for ages.... haha... could have been cool....

Aaaaanyway, this old banger decided to conk out on us on several occasions along the way.... the road was bumpy, the vehicule smelly and poorly insulated..once it got dark it was thoroughly depressing.. at least I could converse in their native lingo and work out what was going on... thankfully, the bonnet was raised and the water/petrol levels all topped up etc and we went on our way...they thought it was the battery initially.. I mean we were in the middle of nowhere in the sleety rain...took us 4 hours to reach Futa...From there someone aboard told me to run for a nearby residence which I did instantly.. The owners gave me one hell of a welcome and charged me half of what I was charged in Chaiten with a supper, tea, all thrown in front of me. I was treated like I had just been saved from a shipwreck or mountain emergency / natural hazard rescue lol... they too had this lovely aga puffing out smoke an radiating heat... the set up reminded me of my paternal grandparents farm and guesthouse when they had it running....

The old couple and neice fussed over me and insisted I kept warm.. Next door, the 80year old husband resumed entertaiing his punters in their "pub"... poeple were owning their pisco and beers lol whilst I dined in the kitchen feelin a little awkward... Then I suggested putting a mesage on the radio for someone who was crossing to Argentina the follwing day to come pick me up and be so kind as to take me there as the BUS was leaving on 4th, a day later lol..........differnt company and not at all in sink with my arrival here but oh well.. thus is 3rd world life...... was soooooo funny to hear my message on the radio... "this foreigner is looking to get to argentina tomorrow. if someone could call el campesino and drop by"........ main source of local communication..... had one response an hour later but the prospective driver wanted the equivalent of five pounds.. the cheek..... should be free with a little offering on my part but not a rip off.... thought stuff it, Il get the bus and make the most of my pampering.....

After one drunken local alcoholic had to regain composure in the couple's kitchen (they are heavly fined if found drunk on street!), I made way up to room which was cold as but had many blankets.... private shower........

3rd: awoke coldest yet. apparently the UNHEARD of cold wave has ben the coldest they can recall *eeek*.... around minus 15-20degrees or whatever.... got free brekkie in the morning and got escorted to the road which leads to the river...the main asset of the zone for arguably the world's most scenic and best rafting!!!!! otherwise the city was frozen over and mountains clouded over..at least the snowhad stopped and I could walk around the ghost town. everyone was topping up their agas "estufas" and keeping well indoors apart from poor outoor manual workers like....spent the second part of the day in the internet caf writing this novel and laughing at my humbling authentic and eye-opening experiences...........but secretly glad to be leaving for Argentina the next day on another suspect bus service...... felt so at home that I was using the kitchen and offering them my dishwashing services and all that.. bless them indeed.


4th: day started in pouring rain at 7am............ Climbed aboard another people carrier and had an unnecessary interesting time at the border which had like no1 else passing through lol. a little shack with a tabel and that kind of environment if you please. but had hard time from Aargentine oficals nonetheless.. trying to find out wehre i lived..... then scanning my dozens of stamps to work out the validity of my entry.... then getting my name wrong.. bah!!!!
nice views of greeny brown flat pastures on way to Esquel on Argentinian side. passed through the Welsh strongohold of Trevelin but unfortunately my mini holdback in chile has prevented me from getting to know that area. another time, another trip to Patagonia completely methinks..... still, the feel was completely different from the chilean side... there was still snowy patches around but people going obout normally in a PROPER town lol... back to civilisation. then I managed to get straght on bus to Bariloche where I could have arived from Puerto Montt days before had it not ben for my patagonia impulse. spent aftee chilling and oprganising trip to Buenos Aires via another town above Bariloche, now in lake region.

Will be spending next 2-3 days here then have joy of 20hr bus ride to the cpital where I will meet friends and stay for 5 days.... cant wait but also semi looking forward to returning homeand semi lamenting my 3 weeks ish remaining....


Over and out.